American Pie

American Pie Recipes by Chef Robert Pie is still one of America’s all-time favorite desserts and invariably my first choice over other desserts when given a choice. Crisp, flaky crusts filled with luscious creams, silken custards, choice seasonal fruits, or light-as-a-cloud chiffons evoke an undying love affair. A simple slice of pie can transcend into the ephemeral sphere when married with warm caramel or chocolate sauce, sweetened whipped cream lightly scented with vanilla or liqueur, home-churned ice cream or sharp American cheddar.

Pies are classified into two basic categories: baked and unbaked. A baked pie is one in which the filling and pastry are backed together. In some cases the pastry may be partially baked, the filling then added and baked in the pastry. For unbaked pies, the pastry is completely baked first, cooled, and then filled with a prepared filling. The term “baking blind” refers to the pie pastry being baked without any filling (see chef’s note).

Baked pies are further classified into two categories based on the filling: fruit pies and soft (or custard-type) pies. Fruit fillings may be cooked or raw depending on the recipe and choice of fruit. Make sure to completely cool any cooked filling first before putting it into the pie pastry, otherwise the pastry has a tendency to become soggy.

Pumpkin, egg custard, pecan, chess and similar soft pies are made by combining a liquid with eggs. Many of these pies benefit from partially baking the pie shell before adding the filling.

Unbaked pies are further classified into two categories based on filling: cream pies and chiffon pies. Both of these pies require a completely bake pie crust. Cream pies are filled with cooked custard (the same as pudding) and usually topped with either whipped cream or meringue. Cornstarch is the preferred thickening ingredient for this custard so that the slices hold their shape when cut.

Chiffon filling begins with fruit puree or custard thickened with egg, starch or combination of both. In addition, gelatin is sometimes used to add stability to the filling so that slices will hold their shape when cut. Beaten egg whites and/or whipped cream add a light and fluffy texture to these fillings much like that of a mousse or Bavarian cream.

Learning to make the pie pastry can be a trying ordeal and deserves a commentary of its own. Once you’ve mastered making the pastry, however, pies are simple fare to bake. If making the pastry intimidates you, don’t despair. Try one of those pie crusts in the refrigerated counter at your local grocer. Fit it into your pie pan and make the filling. Bake some pie and enjoy!

CHEF ROBERT'S NOTES
Baking a Pastry Shell Blind

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

After lining the pie pan with pastry, prick the bottom and sides of the pie pastry with a fork. Take a piece of aluminum foil a little larger than the pie pan and press it gently into the pan on top of the crust. Fill the pan with dry beans, rice or pie weights and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and the weights.

To par-bake pie shell: bake the pie shell for another 5 minutes. The shell should be firm and dry but not brown. Place the pie shell on a wire rack to cool.

To fully bake a pie shell: bake the pie shell until it is lightly browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Place the pie shell on a wire rack to cool.

To avoid having the edges of the crust get too brown, cover the edges with aluminum foil before finishing baking.

Lemon Puddin’ Cake Pie
In weekly calls to my mother, our conversation more often than not turns to food and cooking. Once she told me of a supper she had attended where a friend was raving about a Lemon Puddin’ Cake Pie his wife had made. I vaguely remember making such a pie eons ago when in chef school so I got to digging around. Come to find out this is an old and nearly forgotten Amish recipe from Pennsylvania Dutch country called, “Lemon Sponge Pie”. Topping this pie is a delicate golden brown cakelike layer hiding silky lemon custard underneath. Makes one 9-inch pie or 6-8 servings

1 (9-inch) pie shell, unbaked
2 eggs at room temperature, separated
3/4 cup + 1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Grated peel and juice of 1 large lemon (1 1/2 teaspoons grated zest; 1/4 cup juice)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

Prick the bottom and sides of the piecrust with a fork. Take a piece of aluminum foil a little larger than the pie pan and press it gently into the pan on top of the crust. Fill the pan with dry beans, rice or pie weights and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and the weights and bake the pie shell for another 5 minutes. The shell should be firm and dry but not brown. Place the pie shell on a rack to cool while you make the filling. Reduce the oven to 350°F.

Whisk the egg yolks in a mixing bowl until smooth. Add 3/4 cup sugar, flour, melted butter and lemon zest to the egg yolks and whisk to combine. Whisk in the lemon juice and salt then add the milk, whisking again to a smooth batter.

Put the egg whites in a dry, grease-free bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whip attachment (or use a hand held mixer). Whip the egg whites on medium speed until they start to get good and foamy. Add 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, to the egg whites while continuing to whip. Turn the mixer to high and whip the egg whites to firm glossy peaks without being dry. (When you pull the whip or beaters out of the egg whites the peak will stand up and curve over just slightly at the tip.)

Using a large rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped egg whites into the batter all at once. Pour the batter into the pie shell and bake until the top is golden brown and the center feels just firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. A wooden skewer poked into the center of the pie will come out clean.

Place the pie on a wire cooling rack. Cool completely before serving. The filling puffs up during baking and sinks back as it cools pulling away just slightly from the top edge. If you want to dress it up to take it to church then cover the top with sweetened whipped cream or dust it with powdered sugar just before serving.

It will still taste good but the crust tends to get a little soggy.

Lagniappe
Egg whites whip up better at room temperature than they do when cold. Always make sure that all utensils, bowls and beaters are clean and grease free. There can be no speck of yolk in the whites either. Fat in any form prohibits the whites from whipping up.

Buttermilk Pie
Of all the Chess Pie variants, this one is my all time favorite. I remember on special occasions my family would take a short trip over to Asheville, NC, to dine at Bailey’s Cafeteria. The Buttermilk Pie served there was exceptional. Although I’ve never been able to quite duplicate it, this recipe was given to me by Diane Theus, one of my pantry cooks at the Hilton in Bossier City, LA. It’s equally as toothsome.

Makes one 9-inch pie or 6-8 servings

1 (9-inch) pie shell, unbaked
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1 1/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Combine flour, sugar and melted butter in a medium-size mixing bowl. Whisk eggs and buttermilk mixing until smooth. Whisk in lemon juice and vanilla extract. Pour the filling into pie shell.

Place the pie in a preheated 350° F oven and bake minutes until the filling is a pale golden brown, about 30 to 40 minutes. A wooden skewer poked into the center of the pie will come out clean.

Place the pie on a wire cooling rack. Cool completely before serving. Serve at room temperature. This pie is best served the day it is made, but if you have any leftover, cover it with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.

Oatmeal Pie
Although sometimes referred to as a poor man’s pecan pie that’s really doing this pie an injustice as it has enough character to stand on its own. Versions of this pie can be found throughout Amish and Mennonite communities in Indiana and Ohio as well as Southern Appalachia where it is known as Mock Pecan Pie. This pie has rich, delicate brown sugar custard on the bottom and a top like a fat, chewy oatmeal cookie. Although the raisins and walnuts are not traditional additions, I like this version. Besides, it elevates the pie from its so called poverty status.

Makes one 9-inch pie or 6-8 servings

1 (9-inch) pie shell, unbaked
1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup light corn syrup
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup one-minute quick cooking rolled oats
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
1/4 cup dark seedless raisins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Stir the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt together in a medium-size mixing bowl. Stir in the beaten eggs, corn syrup, melted butter and vanilla extract, mixing until smooth. Stir in the oats, walnuts and raisins. Pour the filling into the pie shell.

Place the pie in a preheated 350° F oven and bake until the custard is set, 35 to 45 minutes. The pie will feel slightly springy to the touch. A wooden skewer poked into the center of the pie will come out clean.

Place the pie on a wire cooling rack. Cool completely before serving. If you have any leftover after the first day, cover it with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator. This pie is good even on the second or third day.